Slat Chairs - Day 1

We have a very small camp at Pennsic. It is a small group of us close knit friends that camp together with our kids and most years the kids outnumber the grown ups. We like to keep it small and family friendly and the original idea was to be as period as possible. Of course we still have propane stoves and toys and crayons that are not strictly period but we try our best to keep the glaring mundane stuff out of site. Money and time are always a factor but every year we try to do a little better. This year we are trying to make our common areas more medieval looking. Our biggest offense (other than the Coleman lanterns) is our mundane camp chairs. I have a medieval looking chair I purchased a couple years back and that it is great for our dining table and it was definitely a splurge for me to buy it back when we had the means to splurge. We art thinking for the dining table we will try and get some 2nd hand or inexpensive new wooden folding chairs and that will look better than our current situation. This weekend we drove to my in-laws so we could take advantage of my father-in-law's most excellent woodshop in the basement and his considerable expertise to help us make a few slat chairs for around our fire pit.

In 2000 we had him help us make our canopy bed from a pattern we bought at Panther Primative (which is where we got the tent from) and we are still enjoying our bed. Last year I bought the pattern for the chairs and it took many months of nagging to get to this point today :) I was not really in on the discussion of what wood to get, and didn't go shopping with the guys so I can't get specific on the deviations from the pattern. I think it was just the thickness of the slats.

The pattern for the chairs we are making one "double wide" loveseat, and 2 adult size chairs. 

Frederick's material list

 

 This wood will be used for cutting the rails for the chairs the bottom picture is the wood for the slats.

The wood we used is clear white pine. It is really nice quality.

We decided to seal the final chairs with Thompson's water sealer so they can withstand many years of the harsh Pennsic weather.

Frederick glued the paper pattern for the chair rails to a piece of Masonite to make it a more sturdy pattern. (After this picture was taken we made him put on safety glasses!!!)

I got to use the chop saw!!!! My job was to cut 13 x 3 feet sections for the slats on the double wide chair and 26 x 18 inche sections for the 2 single person chairs.

Chopping away with my face shield (Safety first!!!)

 

 

My father-in-law setting up the router for me.

Frederick sanding down his template

 

 

The templates at the top of the picture and the wood for the "cleats" (rails that add stability to the chair) are in the bottom of the picture.

Drawing out the chair rails on the wood using his awesome templates.

I have moved on to the router. Both long edges on one side of the wood will be rounded. The edges will be rounded by my Father-in-law since doing the edges are way beyond my skill level.

Frederick is using the chop saw to cut down the chair rail wood to make it easier to work with.

Frederick working the band saw to cut out the chair rails. These chairs would have been so much more work if we didn't have all these great tools to help us.

Frederick sanding the chair rails on the belt sander. You can see all the sawdust in the air.

 doing the final sanding on the chair rails using a fine grade sand paper.

Frederick said I needed to put some muscle into it!

 

Frederick proud of his "bone pile".

Chair rails for the double wide chair.

 

Cleat slats all routed and sanded.

 

Slats for the single size chairs.

 

Chair rails for the single chairs

 

More slats for the single size chair.

Slats for the double wide chair.

 

Tomorrow we just need to finish sanding the chair rails on the belt sander, use the router to round the edges of the slats, drill holes for the screws put it all together then stain. 

 

My silk painting experiment

I have wanted to make silk banners with my hubby's heraldry on it for many years. I have seen so many beautifully painted silk banners and the people who made them always assured me it was easy. The problem was I didn't know what the right paints for the job. I am a big fan of Dharma Trading (I have been getting tie dye supplies from them for years) but there were so many choices I didn't know where to begin.

The original plan was to make 2 long thin silk banners with my husbands heraldry on them. The first one is going to go on a finial on the top of our round pavilion and the second will go on a banner pole that my son can carry when we walk with my hubby to battle. Our camp at Pennsic would also love to have silk banners lining the walls of our common tent with all or our personal heraldry along with the baronies and kingdoms we belong to.

I decided instead of continue my fruitless search for someone to walk me through it, that I would use my chemistry training and run an experiment of my own, and it was so much fun!!!!

I ordered two starter kits from Dharma, the first was the Jacquard silk colors (green label) starter kit which had a gutta resist  and the other was the silk painting starter kit and that one had a water based resist.  The first kit had silk dyes that needed to go through a chemical rinse and the gutta would not wash out. The second kit has silk paints that needed to be heat set with an iron and the water based gutta will wash out in warm water after setting. I also purchased a set of silk hankies so I could mix and match the kit contents and see what I liked the best. Here are my results.

      Kit #1

 This kit contained the Jacquard silk dyes and the gutta resist. The dye has the advantage over paint because when it dries it feels like part of the fabric, it is actually dying the fabric as opposed to paint that just lays on top. This test did not work out as well as I had hoped because I think I had a bad batch of gutta. It was so thick and dried out it was extremely difficult to get it through the metal point on the applicator bottle. As a result some of my gutta lines were bad and I had a lot of bleed through. When they get in a new batch of gutta over at Dharma Trading, I would like to try again. It did seem I could get a thinner line with this gutta, with the water based gutta it spread out a lot more when it got on the fabric. I think also when doing the silk banners for the common tent it might be nice to use a black colored gutta and it would look a bit like stained glass when done.

 I love to collect medieval style coloring books. The bold lines in the designs are great for tracing through fabric for an embroidery design or applique. And now I found another great use for them, silk hanky designs :) Since I was only using 12 x 12 silk hankies I used an inexpensive 12 x 12 wooden frame I bought at Michael's to stretch out the silk. Now that I feel I will be doing this a lot more in the future I will invest in a fabric stretcher frame . I pulled out my little light box to trace the design but the silk was so fine I didn't need it.

 Here is the silk hanky with the design traced on the silk in pencil. I used rubber bands and safety pins stretched over the push pins that came with the other kit to really stretch it out.
I put some of the gutta into a small squeeze bottle with a metal tip and went over all the pencil lines and made sure that all the lines that passed over each other had a good solid connection. The gutta stops the dye from spreading to an area you don't want it to go into. As I mentioned before my gutta was hard to work with so I had a lot of bleeding. After the gutta is put on the silk I let is sit and dry for about an hour or so before going in with the dye.

I applied the dye with the sumi brush that came with the kit. I really liked how the brush came to a point but I washed it in warm water to try and get the dye out before the next color and the brush totally puffed up. Maybe I shouldn't have washed it, but I would be surprised if these were supposed to be one use brushes. After the dying was all done I let it dry for 24 hours. Then I rinsed it in the fixative bath according to the directions on the bottle.

The finished result!!  The color remained nice and bright I was really happy with the results despite the color bleeding. It actually kind of has a water color effect. When you feel the silk you can feel the gutta there but not the dye.

 Kit #2

 

 

 This kit contained Dye-na-flow silk paint and water based gutta that can be washed out after you heat set the paint.

I traced the pattern in pencil and attached it to the frame the same way as with the kit #1 sample

 

The water based gutta was much easier to work with. It glided out of the applicator bottle easily but it did spread out a little more when it hit the silk. For my husband's heraldic banner that shouldn't be too much of a problem since it is green on white. I will just shift the gutta over a little bit onto the white part of the design. After I applied the gutta I let it dry for about an hour before adding the paint. 



 

The paint went on easily as well. The colors were nice and bright.

After the painting was done I let the design dry again for 24 hours. Then I went over it according to the directions with a hot iron with a scrap cloth under and over the design. After it was heat set I washed the silk in warm soapy water and the resist easily came off and the paint stayed intact.

 



The final result. It was very easy to work with both the water based resist and the dye-na-flow paints. There is definitely a difference in the final appearance. This definitely has a "paint" appearance to it, and it does slightly stiffen the silk where the paint is. For the heraldic banners hanging on the walls it would be fine, but for the heraldic banners we want to flow in the breeze we will definitely go with the dyes. that leads me to my next experiment........

Silk Dye with Water based resist 

 



 In the Dharma Trading catalog it says that the water based resist doesn't do to well going through the chemical fixative used with the silk dyes. But I was in the mood to experiment and since I didn't have a good result with the gutta resist in the first kit (I didn't know for sure it was a bad batch until I wrote this post and saw it on their website) so I forged ahead in the name of science!!!

I traced the design using pencil, stretched the hanky on my frame, added the water based gutta and let it dry for about an hour. Then I added the Jacquard silk dyes using the sumi brush and a regular paint brush. I let that all dry for 24 hours and then put it in the chemical fixative rinse. The water based gutta had no problem washing out at all!

 The final result. I was very happy with the result I got from using the jacquard silk dye and the water based gutta. I think this is the combination I am going to go with for the heraldic banners for my hubby. I still have lots of everything left from the starter kit. I think I will have to host my own silk painting workshop for my medieval friends.